Laser engraving works by directing a focused beam of light at a material surface, vaporizing or discoloring the top layer to create a permanent mark. The Thunder Nova 51 CO₂ laser engraver at Palm Coast Customs in Estero, Florida runs at a wavelength of 10,600nm — optimal for organic materials like wood, leather, acrylic, and coated metals. Getting a great result is about matching the right power, speed, and focus settings to the specific material in front of you.
This guide explains the full process — the machine, the materials, the settings, and what actually goes into making a quality laser engraved piece.
The Machine: Thunder Nova 51
The Thunder Nova 51 is a CO₂ laser engraver with a 51x35cm work area and a 60-watt laser tube. It's a professional-grade machine built for production work — consistent results, reliable repeatability, and the ability to handle a wide range of materials without switching machines.
CO₂ lasers operate at a 10,600nm infrared wavelength. This wavelength is absorbed efficiently by organic materials — wood, leather, acrylic, paper, rubber, and coated metals. It's not suitable for bare metals (which need a fiber laser) or most glass without special coatings, but for the materials most custom engraving businesses work with, it's the right tool.
The machine has two primary modes:
- Raster engraving — the laser moves back and forth like a printer, burning one row at a time to fill in large areas or reproduce photos and complex artwork
- Vector engraving/cutting — the laser follows a path (like a line or curve) to engrave outlines or cut through material
Most jobs use a combination of both. A business sign might use raster engraving for the logo fill and vector passes for the outer cut.
How the Settings Work
Three variables control every result:
Power
Power is the wattage output of the laser — how much energy is hitting the material. Higher power burns deeper and faster. Too much power on a thin material will burn through it or create a scorched, blowout look. Too little power and the mark is too light or doesn't etch cleanly.
On the Thunder Nova 51 for 3mm Baltic birch plywood, a standard text engrave runs at about 55–65% power. For Rowmark LaserMax acrylic, the same job requires less power — acrylic is more sensitive to heat and can melt if you push too hard.
Speed
Speed is how fast the laser head moves across the material. Slower speed = more time on each spot = more energy = deeper, darker mark. Faster speed = lighter touch.
Speed and power work together. You can achieve the same depth with high power/high speed or lower power/slower speed — but the quality of the result differs. On detailed work, slower speeds give the laser head more control and reduce the risk of the edges blowing out.
Focus
Focus is the distance between the laser lens and the material surface. The laser has a focal point where the beam is at its narrowest and most intense. If the material is above or below the focal point, the beam is slightly out of focus — the mark is wider and softer, less precise.
For most engraving, you want sharp focus. But there's a technique called defocusing — intentionally raising or lowering the work surface slightly from the focal point — that's useful for certain effects on leather or when you want a softer, wider mark without changing power.
Getting focus right is especially important on curved surfaces like tumblers, which is why a rotary attachment is required.
The Rotary Attachment: How Tumbler Engraving Works
Flat materials sit on the bed and the laser moves above them. Cylindrical objects like YETI tumblers, wine glasses, and mugs can't lay flat — the curved surface would move in and out of focus as the laser traverses it.
The rotary attachment solves this by holding the tumbler horizontally and rotating it at a controlled speed as the laser engraves. The laser moves in one axis; the tumbler rotates in the other. The result is a seamless, correctly proportioned design that wraps the surface.
Setting up a rotary job requires:
- Measuring the tumbler diameter to configure the rotation ratio correctly
- Finding the focus point on the curved surface
- Adjusting the artwork to account for any curve compensation
A YETI 30oz tumbler has a slightly different diameter at the top vs. the body, so placement matters. Too close to the top edge and the taper affects the focus. Most designs land cleanly in the center third of the tumbler.
Materials: What Works, What Doesn't, and Why
3mm Baltic Birch Plywood
Best for: Signs, ornaments, keychains, small home décor pieces
Baltic birch is the most consistently reliable wood for laser engraving. It has a tight, even grain structure with minimal voids, which means the laser burns evenly across the surface. The contrast between engraved and natural wood is warm and readable.
At Palm Coast Customs, most wood sign blanks are 3mm or 6mm Baltic birch. For larger signs where depth matters, 6mm is better — it gives more structural rigidity and allows for deeper engraving without burning through.
Pine and MDF also work but are less predictable. MDF burns with a lower contrast and the adhesives can produce inconsistent results. Hardwoods like walnut give beautiful, dark engravings with excellent contrast but require lower speed to avoid scorching the edges.
Rowmark LaserMax Acrylic
Best for: Backlit signs, awards, keychains, modern home décor
Rowmark LaserMax is a cast acrylic designed specifically for laser engraving. It frosts cleanly in the engraved area and the edge cut quality is excellent — near-optical-clear when cut correctly.
Cast acrylic vs. extruded acrylic matters. Extruded acrylic (the cheaper variety) can craze and crack under laser heat. Cast acrylic absorbs the energy more evenly and produces cleaner results. LaserMax is formulated to give consistent frosting depth — important for backlit signs where uneven frosting creates visible variation in the glow.
For backlit signs, the design is engraved on the back surface of the acrylic so it glows through the front. This requires mirroring the design file before engraving.
Genuine Leather
Best for: Patches, keychains, bag tags, premium branded pieces
Genuine leather engraves with a warm, muted contrast — the laser lightly chars the surface, creating a brown-toned mark against the natural leather color. The result is subtle and premium-looking.
Thickness matters. Thin leather (1–2mm) can warp under the laser heat. Thicker leather (3–4mm) holds its shape better and gives a more consistent depth across the engraved area.
Faux leather (PU or PVC) is not a suitable substitute — it contains synthetic materials that produce toxic fumes when heated and the result looks noticeably cheaper. Only genuine leather is used for engraving at Palm Coast Customs.
Coated Drinkware (YETI and Similar)
Best for: Personalized tumblers, mugs, water bottles
YETI tumblers and similar stainless steel drinkware have a powder-coated exterior. The CO₂ laser removes the powder coating to reveal the bare stainless steel beneath — the contrast between the silver metal and the colored coating is the design.
This means the result quality depends heavily on the coating. Premium coatings like YETI's DuraCoat give clean, consistent removal. Off-brand tumblers with thin or inconsistently applied coatings give unpredictable results — blotchy removal, rough edges, or areas where the coating was too thick to remove cleanly.
One thing I've learned engraving hundreds of tumblers on the Thunder Nova 51: the YETI 30oz in black gives the highest contrast and the cleanest look. The black coating comes off sharply and the stainless beneath is bright. Lighter colors — white, pink, frost — have less contrast and show the design more softly. Both are beautiful; it's a matter of the aesthetic you're going for.
Slate Coasters
Best for: Wedding favors, housewarming gifts, corporate coasters
Natural slate engraves with a light, dusty white contrast against the dark stone. The look is clean and modern.
Slate is one of the most forgiving materials — power and speed can vary within a fairly wide range and still produce a good result. The main variable is the stone itself: natural slate has veining and variation that can affect how the laser reads the surface. Uniform pieces cut better; highly striated pieces can show variation in engraving depth.
The Full Production Process
Step 1: Design Preparation
Every job starts with the design file. Vector files (SVG, AI, EPS) are preferred — they're resolution-independent, so the laser can follow the path perfectly at any size. Raster files (JPG, PNG) work for photos and complex artwork but require the right resolution (minimum 300dpi at the final engraving size).
For customers who send a rough idea or a text description, Veronica creates the design in LightBurn (the software that controls the Thunder Nova 51) and sends a digital proof before production begins.
Step 2: Material Setup
The material is placed on the laser bed (or loaded into the rotary for cylindrical pieces). Focus is set — either manually using a focus gauge or with the Thunder Nova 51's autofocus sensor. The home position is set and the job boundary is framed to confirm the design will land in the right position.
Step 3: Test Run
For new materials or new design configurations, a test run on a scrap piece is standard. This confirms the power/speed settings are correct before running the final piece. A test that takes 2 minutes can prevent ruining a $40 cutting board blank.
Step 4: Production
The laser runs the job. Raster jobs take longer than vector jobs — a complex filled logo on a cutting board might take 20–30 minutes. A simple text name on a tumbler might take 4 minutes. Larger jobs with multiple pieces run sequentially.
The laser ventilation system runs during every job — the smoke and particulate from burning wood, acrylic, and leather needs to be captured and filtered. The Thunder Nova 51 uses an inline exhaust fan venting outside, with a honeycomb catch tray for debris.
Step 5: Cleanup and Finishing
Wood pieces are wiped clean of laser residue. Some wood pieces get a light coat of finishing oil to enhance the contrast and protect the surface. Acrylic pieces have the protective film removed and edges inspected. Tumblers are cleaned and inspected under direct light.
If anything doesn't look right — uneven depth, a burn mark outside the design area, a piece that moved during engraving — it gets remade. The standard is that every finished piece looks exactly as it did in the digital proof.
What Determines Quality
Material quality first. The best settings in the world can't fix a low-quality blank. Warped wood, thin coating, inconsistent acrylic thickness — these are upstream problems that show up in the finished piece. Quality materials cost more and are worth it.
File quality second. A low-resolution logo will look pixelated in the engraving regardless of machine quality. A vector file will always produce a cleaner result than a raster file for designs with crisp lines and text.
Settings third. Power, speed, and focus tuned to the specific material and job type. This is the craftsmanship part — learned by running hundreds of jobs and building a feel for how each material behaves.
Consistency fourth. The Thunder Nova 51's work area is consistent across the full 51x35cm bed, but small variations in material thickness can affect focus. For bulk orders where every piece needs to look identical, this means checking focus at multiple points across the bed and adjusting when needed.
Common Questions About the Process
How deep does laser engraving go? On wood, a standard single-pass engrave removes about 0.3–0.5mm of material. Multiple passes cut deeper. For most decorative applications, a single pass gives the right depth and contrast without over-burning.
Will the engraving wear off? No. The mark is made by removing or altering the material itself — there's nothing to peel or fade. A laser engraved YETI tumbler will still show the design decades later. The only exception is extreme physical abrasion (sandpaper, grinding) that would damage the surface itself.
Can you engrave photos? Yes. Photo engraving on wood (called raster photo engraving) converts a grayscale image into a pattern of laser dots. The result looks like a halftone print — it's recognizable and detailed but not photorealistic. High-contrast black-and-white photos give the best results.
Can you engrave color? Standard CO₂ laser engraving is monochromatic — it creates a single-color mark. Color is introduced through the material itself (colored acrylic, colored coatings on tumblers) or through post-processing (paint fill in the engraved area).
If you'd like to place an order or have a question about whether a specific material or design will work, reach out directly. Text (303) 495-9097 or DM @palmcoast.customs on Instagram.